TwinTurbo.NET: Nissan 300ZX forum - Re: Feramic
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Subject Re: Feramic
     
Posted by Greg D. (Specialty-Z) on June 02, 2012 at 2:21 PM
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In Reply To Feramic does not seize as easy as that but is probably posted by Joe@ZSpeedperformance on May 31, 2012 at 01:05 AM
     
Message Feramic was designed in the 1930's for tractors; it is dense, heavy, able to hold lots of torque. The co-effcient of friction is very high.
For tractors that engage and run at very low RPM's, the material is amazing.
For diesels that are carrying heavy loads and typically only rev to 2500 RPM, the material is also a great choice.
It does not make sense for a small engine in a heavy car that turns a lot of RPM.
Feramic does not require revving the engine to 7000 RPM to seize the material; it just takes slipping for a few seconds at 3000 to 4000 RPM, this is why Travis had a problem.
The material has a high co-efficient of friction, so slipping it makes lots of heat.
For drag racing, someone that dumps the clutch fast is less likely to have a problem with feramic sticking than someone that slides the clutch. Having less friction material with a puck disc vs. full face will make less heat due the disc having less friction area.
The ability to slide a clutch results in a quicker drag time, dumping the clutch typically results in the car bogging if sticky tires are used. When drag racing, you do not want the clutch to bite right away, you want the clutch to slip a little, but still have the ability to grab after being slipped. This allows the driver to keep the engine from bogging, allowing the driver to put the engine in the power band.
Slipping a Feramic clutch while drag racing or slipping a feramic clutch to load a car on a car carrier will make insane heat, that heat is transferred into the flywheel. If you shut the car off right after making the heat, the feramic material will melt and attach itself to the flywheel. If you dis-engage the clutch after making the heat, and keep the car running to cool down the flywheel, it is much less likely to stick. Even keeping the car running will help cool the flywheel and it is less likely to stick.
The material baking against the hot flywheel shortly after the heat is made is what causes the problem.
Having spent some time testing materials on a clutch dyno, I personally would not recommend feramic for a automotive clutch. It is too grabby for drag racing, it is too heavy making it difficult to shift at higher RPM causing added wear to the already weak transmission. because the material is grabby, it also makes it harder to drive on the street with a small engine and light flywheel.

     
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